HID Retrofit - 2002 2500HD LB7 Chevy Silverado - Page 2 of 2

Now we need to complete the wiring in the truck. The wiring harness simply plugs your existing factory plug wire, into your relay. The HID Bulb plugs into your relay. The relay needs a positive and a ground connection. I used a positive junction box that was in my trucks engine compartment for the positive. I used a frame bolt for my ground. This is where you will need ring terminals and possibly some extra wire length. Make sure you solder all your terminal-to-wire connections, since vibration and moisture will cause this connection to fail if you don’t. Before you install anything, test fit your wire connections to make sure you ordered the correct wiring harness and relay. Use at least 12 gauge wiring.

Locate a suitable place to mount your relays and ballasts. I chose these locations, in the pictures below. Do not drill into the shallow areas or top of the plastic shroud around the radiator fan, since there is an aluminum radiator behind it, and you don’t want to make any holes. Use lock washers so that wherever you decide to mount these components, they don’t work loose over time. Also, make sure that the hood can close freely. Make double sure nothing can work its way into the serpentine belt!

P1000877 — Mounting Location for the drivers side relay, wiring harness and ballast. Use short screws and pay attention because important hardware is behind this plastic cover. Make sure the hood can close. Use lock washers/nuts

Location of passenger side HID ballast. At the bottom left side of this picture, shiny black box. Under the air filter box.

Now install your headlight housings, with HID bulbs loosely installed, into the truck. Don’t use your factory headlight adjusters yet, we want to get the HID bulb aim close first. Locate an area with flat ground and a straight wall, such as a garage. As a rule of thumb, your headlights should be aimed so that they drop 2″ per 15 feet of distance. Move your HID projectors around for each side until the cutoff is level, and your height is good. Also, use the “notches” in the cutoff shield to make sure each HID bulb is pointed straight forward. This isn’t as important, since a degree or two off left-to-right here won’t matter much.

Once satisfied with your aiming, tighten down your Projector’s nuts to lock them into place. Use approximately 5-10 ft/lbs of torque, although this is just a guess since I couldn’t find a torque spec anywhere. Don’t strip the threads, they don’t need to be uber tight. Once the projectors are locked in place, you can re-install your lenses.

Reinstall Lenses:

Place the window weld ribbon into the headlight groove around the perimeter of the housing where the lens will go. Place the housing with this ribbon in place in a preheated oven at 150-200 degrees. Remove the housing and immediately press the lens onto the housing and hold until it cools below 150 deg F. Press fairly hard, making sure to work out any air, and squeeze the window weld where it needs to be. Use any window weld as required now to apply to thin areas or areas where water could sit on the top, or get into the housing. You can’t see this area with the hood shut, so it doesn’t matter what it looks like.

Window Weld Around Headlight Lens to connect the lens and prevent water from entering. Also shown in the back is the epoxy used to connect the housing extension on the passenger side.

Reinstall your housings with lenses into the truck. Now you can use your factory adjustment to fine tune the aim. Test everything and you’re done!

Here are some pictures so you can see the improvement. With the factory low beams, I could barely see the road in front of me. With these HID’s the road is evenly and well lit, and my passengers are continuously impressed with the light quality. The quad-high with HID combo is downright impressive. You can clearly see how much brighter the HID’s are, even compared to the factory high beams bulbs in the pictures below.